Diamonds, whether lab grown or mined, are graded by both GIA and the IGI (Gemological Institute of America, and International Gemological Institute). While less common, also in use is the AGS (American Gem Society). Important to understand with your diamond certificate is that these entities grade diamonds, as opposed to offering an appraised value.
The grading certificate offers value in identifying the unique features of your diamonds, and are graded in the following categories, or 4 C's:
Cut:
- Excellent: bright with a lot of sparkle, and an even pattern of contrasting dark and light areas. The facets are sharp and align well.
- Very Good: this cut will not offer quite the sparkle, and the cuts will be less precise than that having an EXC cut.
- Good: light will reflect in a less spectacular way, bouncing with less consistency throughout the diamond.
- Fair: the facets in a fair cut will not be well aligned, and you will notice less shine.
- Poor: there will be dark areas, with poor shine.
- An "ideal" cut applies to round diamonds only, equal to excellent, although you will find other shapes incorrectly represented with this description.
A well-cut diamond will offer the following properties: brilliance, dispersion and scintillation. When light lands on a diamond's surface, it will either reflect off the table of a polished stone or enter the diamond. The light that is reflected off the diamond is known as the diamond's brilliance. As light travels through a stone, some of the light rays are separated into flashes of color. This is called a diamonds dispersion. The result of dispersion is the light separating into different colors. As you move your diamond in light, you will see what is referred to as scintillation.
The number of facets in your diamond will depend on the shape you select.
Color:
As you view different diamonds, color can be confusing. What is considered a top color grade does not have color at all- it is considered "colorless". Diamonds are graded from a D to a Z, from no color, to nearly no color, with faint color and light color falling on the lower end of the scale. Many lab diamonds will offer very nearly colorless, so it is easy to avoid the presence of an undesirable yellow caused by trace element nitrogen. Fancy colored diamond in a lab stone will offer a huge variety- for the purpose of this article, we are referencing lab diamonds in the colorless hues.
Unless you have a disparity in the color grade of at least 2 levels, it will be difficult to determine the difference.
Clarity:
Selecting a diamond absent an easily identified "inclusion", also called flaws, will be important for the full refractive ability- inclusions sometimes interfere with achieving the shine you might seek as light bounces around your diamond. Grading for clarity falls into several categories: Flawless (F) Internally flawless (IF), VVS1-2 (very very slightly included) VS1-2 (very slightly included), SI 1-2-3 (slightly included) and I (included). If you seek a diamond that is clean, or absent visible inclusions (carbon, feathering) sticking to VVS-VS diamonds are a safe bet. While many lab diamonds sold are in the SI (slightly included) grouping, we make an effort to offer only those diamonds in the VVS-VS category.
Your IGI or GIA certificate will provide a rendering of your exact diamond, with the areas containing imperfections mapped out for you.
Carat Weight:
Carat weight references the size of your diamond.
When rough diamonds are cut, it's possible to lose as much as 2/3rds of the actual size grown or mined. Typically larger sizes, a bit more difficult to achieve in a high quality, will be more expensive than smaller stones set in a cluster, but having the same weight.
At Gempanache, we offer certified (graded) lab diamonds in our engagement rings, as well as any stone over 1 carat in earrings or fashion rings, to afford the confidence that you have achieved the quality sought. With that said, it is possible to love a diamond for it's scintillation and shine despite the grade falling below what you had intended to seek- as each diamond is unique, forming an attachment that offers an immediate sense of excitement occurs when the right lab diamond and setting presents itself.